Comfort Food and Childhood Memories at India Tandoor

Comfort food. It’s what we fondly remember from our childhood—the stuff that made bad days fade away, cured the sniffles, and the first thing you asked mom for when you came home from school.

My Russian lineage would lead you to believe that for me, comfort food means borscht and buckwheat. And yeah, there’s a bit of that. But instead, it’s Indian food that sets off all those bells. Growing up, my dearest friend's family hailed from the Indian state of Gujarat, and hardly a week went by that I didn’t sit in her kitchen and partake in traditional, vegetarian Indian fare.

So, when I opened up the slow-cooker that served buffet-style basmati rice at India Tandoor, a tiny, mirrors-and-red-curtains eatery on the unit block of East 21st Street, that delightful smell knocked the proverbial wind out of me, and brought all those childhood memories flooding back.

Rotli frying in the pan. Chai spices simmering in milk. Rice cooking with cardamom. That’s the stuff.

Thankfully, you don’t have to associate India Tandoor with your fondest food-related childhood memories in order to enjoy it. The Charles North restaurant does best at the traditional, vegetarian stuff: lentils, chickpeas, root veggies in thick sauce. Each time I’ve tried the meat—like chicken added to traditional vegetarian dishes, or the South Indian-inspired fish—it’s been a bit off. Overcooked, or over-fried, or something else that made me regret departing from the vegetarian staples.

Diner beware: even the mild, made-for-the-masses dishes of the buffet packed a punch. Thankfully, there was plenty of raita—a yogurt dish that serves as a bit of a spice antidote—to go around. If you go, don’t forget to get some for the table.

And, although dining in, taking out and delivery are all options at India Tandoor, I recommend the delivery. The restaurant—although they’re doing the best with the space they have—isn’t much to see. On a 60-degree day, it was cool enough inside to make me a bit uncomfortable. Besides, like all good comfort food, I think Indian is best enjoyed in the warmth—and, of course, comfort—of your own home.

India Tandoor

2101 North Charles St.

410-468-0969

Neighborhood

Charles North.

Food Type: 

Indian.  

Damage:

Very little.The buffet, bread, a mango lassi and a so-so chai (disclaimer: I’m picky about my chai) rounded off to about $12 a person.

Gripe:

Cold dining rooms are a pet peeve of mine. Also, on a quiet Sunday, the buffet did look a bit stale—the waitstaff should remember to give the sauces a stir or two when it’s slow.   

Hat tip: 

The naan,a traditional flatbread similar to pita. If you’re eating in, it’s steaming hot and carefully browned, and a perfect tool for sopping up the goodies on your plate.Who needs silverware?!

Go if: 

You’re hitting up a show at Single Carrot or you work nearby. Otherwise, save it for a rainy take-out night.

Don't go if:

You don’t tolerate spice.When I ordered chana masala with “medium” spice, it felt like the chef emptied a jar of hot peppers onto my plate. I was gasping for milk, and remember—I am pretty desensitized to this stuff.